Exploring The 8 Types Of Pearls and How They Define Unmatched Beauty
I believe there is no woman who wouldn't like pearls. Many people wonder how to choose pearls, so we have compiled a comprehensive guide on the knowledge, selection, wearing, and maintenance of pearls in all categories. This beginner's guide to pearls is sufficient, as it provides a step-by-step instruction on how to choose pearls.
The Formation of Pearls
The Formation of Pearls Contrary to popular belief, pearls are not formed by the intrusion of sand into the shell. Instead, they are formed due to the intrusion of living organisms or pathological changes, which create a pearl sac. The epithelial tissue continuously secretes nacre, eventually resulting in the formation of pearls.
The natural origins of pearls are found in the Persian Gulf and along the coast of Panama. Nowadays, it's almost impossible to find natural pearls in the market. Cultured pearls, on the other hand, are produced through human intervention. A technique called "grafting" is used, where a small piece of the mantle tissue from a donor mollusk is implanted into the recipient mollusk, stimulating the formation of a pearl.
The mantle tissue is crucial for pearl formation as it determines the natural color of the pearl and affects its quality.
Pearl Colors
Pearls have three main components of color: body color, overtone, and luster. Body color refers to the primary color of the pearl, overtone refers to the secondary color(s) that appear on the surface, and luster refers to the iridescent rainbow-like sheen visible from different angles.
The prices of certain pearl varieties are greatly influenced by color. For example, in the case of Tahitian pearls, those with peacock overtones are highly sought after in the market and can be priced more than ten times higher than regular black pearls.
Pearl Classifications
Based on their formation, pearls can be categorized as natural pearls and cultured pearls. 99.99% of pearls in the market are cultured pearls. Finding natural pearls is as challenging as finding a needle in a haystack.
Based on their growth environment, pearls can be classified as saltwater pearls and freshwater pearls. Saltwater pearls are further divided into four categories: Akoya, Australian South Sea, Tahitian, and Golden South Sea. Freshwater pearls can be classified as nucleated and non-nucleated. Now, let's explore each of these classifications based on their origin, cultivation, size, color, luster, nacre thickness, and grading standards.
1、Akoya pearls
Akoya pearls originate from Japan, but currently, most of the Akoya pearls in the market come from Beihai in Guangxi, China. In Japan, Akoya pearl cultivation involves two cycles per year: grafting in June and pearl harvesting in December of the following year, as well as grafting in April and pearl harvesting in February of the following year.
The mother mollusk of Akoya pearls, known as the Pinctada martensii, is relatively small in size. As a result, Akoya pearls have a smaller diameter, typically ranging from 2.5mm to 8mm, and rarely exceeding 10mm. High-quality Akoya pearls larger than 10mm are scarce and come at a steep price.
The classic colors of Akoya pearls are white, cream yellow, and gray. The gray Akoya pearls, also known as "genuine dyed pearls," are particularly noteworthy. It's worth mentioning that Akoya pearls do not naturally occur in pink color; any pink Akoya pearls are the result of dyeing treatment. Akoya pearls are often referred to as "little light bulbs" due to their exceptional luster, which is undeniably dazzling!
Let's talk about the nacre thickness of Akoya pearls. Compared to other pearl varieties, Akoya pearls have the thinnest nacre layer, and the market considers a thickness of 0.3-0.6mm to be acceptable. The threshold for true scientific research is 0.4mm, which is referred to as the standard thickness. Pearls with excessively thin nacre layers are usually destroyed and do not enter the market.
It's challenging for ordinary individuals to determine the nacre thickness. Here's a method to share with you: If the pearl has a drilled hole, you can use a magnifying glass to observe the hole and estimate the nacre thickness. However, if the pearl is undrilled or set in a finished piece of jewelry, it is not possible to make such observations. The best approach is to have it examined by a professional testing institution using X-ray detection, where the machine will automatically provide data results.
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Friends who are familiar with Akoya pearls may know that Akoya pearls of good quality are called "Hanazumi" (flower pearls), and those of even better quality are referred to as "Tennyo" (celestial maiden). So, how can one distinguish between a "Hanazumi" and a "Tennyo" pearl?
Firstly, regardless of whether it's a "Hanazumi" or a "Tennyo" pearl, they must meet the following criteria:
- Perfectly round shape.
- Diameter greater than 6mm with strong luster.
- Surface cleanliness should be at least Very Good (VG), which means surface blemishes should not exceed 10%.
- Nacre thickness should be greater than 4mm.
In addition to these general criteria, there are some specific characteristics that differentiate "Hanazumi" and "Tennyo" pearls:
Hanazumi Pearls:
- Typically have a nacre thickness of around 0.4-0.6mm.
- Exhibits vibrant colors, such as pink, silver, or green overtone.
- May have slight surface imperfections, but overall, should maintain a high level of cleanliness.
- Generally more accessible in terms of price compared to Tennyo pearls.
Tennyo Pearls:
- Have a relatively thicker nacre layer, usually around 0.6-1mm or even thicker.
- Show exceptionally high luster, often described as a mirror-like or glassy reflection.
- Possess a clean and smooth surface with minimal to no imperfections.
- Known for their exceptional quality and rarity, Tennyo pearls are highly valued and can command premium prices.
It's important to note that the terms "Hanazumi" and "Tennyo" are not standardized grading terms but rather colloquial descriptions used in the pearl industry. The overall quality and value of a pearl are determined by a combination of factors, including shape, size, luster, surface quality, and nacre thickness.
The criteria for determining "Hanazumi" pearls are as follows: they have a white body color with pink and green overtones. On the other hand, "Tennyo" pearls have even richer overtones, commonly including pink, green, and blue. In other words, if you see a pearl with a white main body color that exhibits pink, blue, and green colors as it rotates, then it is a "Tennyo" pearl.
Now let's talk about Madora pearls.
Madora pearls belong to the gray color range. Their formation is a result of disease or illness. You can think of it as the pearl "getting sick" due to the mother mollusk's condition. However, most Madora pearls in the market are color-enhanced through gamma-ray irradiation.
Compared to dyeing, the advantages of irradiation are that it is faster, provides a more uniform color, and the color does not fade. However, the drawbacks are that it can cause the pearl nucleus to turn black and involve radiation. If you are concerned about the potential impact of radiation on the human body, it is recommended to let the pearls sit for 3-6 months before wearing them for added peace of mind.
Of course, there are also naturally occurring, untreated Madora pearls available in the market, and they tend to be more expensive in price.
The quality of Madora pearls can be judged based on the standards of "Hanazumi" pearls, and high-quality Madora pearls below 6mm are referred to as "Caiyun Zhu" (Cloud-colored pearls).
Now, why are high-quality Akoya pearls so expensive?
Let's do some calculations. In Japan, approximately 5 million Pinctada martensii mollusks are nucleated each year, with one pearl per mollusk. However, any nucleated mollusk can experience pearl rejection. If we assume a conservative rejection rate of 50%, that means there are only around 2.4-2.7 million mollusks peacefully cultivating pearls in the ocean.
Among these mollusks, only 5% of the total harvested pearls can reach the level of Tennyo pearls. This calculation excludes factors such as mollusk mortality during cultivation and ensuring all finished pearls are perfectly round with acceptable nacre thickness. Considering a necklace typically consists of 40 pearls, there would only be enough pearls to make slightly over 3,000 necklaces. With such limited supply, it's no wonder they are expensive.
2、Australia white pearls
"Australian White Pearls" are commonly referred to as "White South Sea pearls." The three major regions for South Sea pearl cultivation are the Northwestern region of Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Among these regions, Australian White pearls are known for their superior quality and are often referred to as the "Queen of Pearls."
The mother oyster of Australian white pearls is known as the Silver-lipped pearl oyster, also called the White-lipped oyster. It is the largest pearl oyster species in the world, typically measuring 25-28cm in shell size and weighing 3-4 kilograms. The White-lipped oyster has the longest growth cycle, usually taking 2-3 years, and it has strict requirements for the water quality of its habitat. Each individual oyster can produce only one pearl.
Australian white pearls are known for their relatively large diameters, ranging from 8mm to 18mm. Due to the longer cultivation period of Australian South Sea pearls, they also have thicker nacre layers. The threshold for nacre thickness is typically set at 8mm.
The body color of Australian South Sea pearls is characterized by a white silk-like luster, accompanied by overtones of green, blue, and pink. Among these overtones, the ones that are slightly silver-blue or silver-gray are particularly popular in the market. If the quality is the same, pearls with a silver-blue or silver-gray overtone may have a slightly higher price compared to regular Australian South Sea pearls.
The top-grade Australian white pearls are referred to as "Venus." In the auction market, the prices achieved for top-grade Australian South Sea pearls can be astonishingly high. The unique luster of Australian white pearls is dazzling, making them suitable for any important occasion. If one were to buy only one type of pearl in their lifetime, it would undoubtedly be Australian white pearls.
3、South Sea Golden Pearls
The main origins of South Sea golden pearls are the Philippines, Myanmar (Burma), and Indonesia. The finest South Sea golden pearls are produced in Myanmar, known for their intense golden color.
The highest grade of South Sea golden pearls is known as "Tea Gold" or "Golden Tea." As the name suggests, it refers to a deep, rich, and vibrant golden color, resembling the color of tea. In the domestic market, different color grades of golden pearls are usually referred to as "Intense Gold," "Deep Gold," "Medium Gold," and "Light Gold/Champagne Gold." "Tea Gold" represents a color intensity that is at least as rich as "Intense Gold" or higher.
The mother of South Sea golden pearls is the gold-lip pearl oyster. Other reference standards are similar to those of Australian South Sea pearls, so I won't go into detail here. However, in terms of luster, South Sea golden pearls may be slightly less brilliant than Akoya pearls, but it's a matter of different characteristics, each with its own beauty. South Sea golden pearls exude a sense of luxury and are perfect for showcasing an aura of wealth and elegance.
When purchasing South Sea golden pearls, it is important to be cautious and avoid buying dyed pearls. There are two types of dyed pearls commonly found in the market. One type involves dyeing light-colored South Sea golden pearls to achieve a deeper golden shade, while the other type involves dyeing freshwater pearls to imitate the appearance of South Sea golden pearls.
If the price is too low or if you come across a batch of South Sea golden pearls with rich and uniform coloration, it's advisable to be cautious as they are likely to be dyed pearls.
4、Tahitian black pearls
The name "Tahitian black pearl" originated from its production in the Tahitian island of the Polynesian archipelago, which accounts for 95% of the world's black pearl production. The name is a transliteration of the island's name, "Tahiti," along with the description of the pearl as black. Approximately 4% of Tahitian black pearls also come from the Cook Islands, specifically from the islands of Penrhyn and Manihiki.
The mother of Tahitian black pearls is the black-lipped pearl oyster, also known as the black-lipped oyster. The shell of this oyster is primarily black in color, which explains why the resulting pearls are black. Tahitian pearls have a relatively large diameter, ranging from 8mm to 15mm. The boundary for determining the thickness of the nacre layer is set at 8mm. Pearls with a diameter smaller than 8mm are considered thin, while those larger than 8mm are considered thick.
The three classic body colors of Tahitian pearls are black, gray, and brown. Based on these different body colors, there are variations such as Peacock Tahitian pearls, Cherry Red Tahitian pearls, Pistachio Tahitian pearls, Brown Tahitian pearls, and Chocolate Tahitian pearls. Among them, Peacock Tahitian pearls have a very rich range of overtones and are highly sought after in the Chinese market. They are also the most expensive, with prices more than 10 times higher than regular black pearls for high-quality ones.
Of course, some unscrupulous merchants may sell counterfeit Tahitian pearls using irradiation or silver nitrate dyeing techniques. Therefore, extra caution should be exercised when purchasing them. Dyed black pearls usually appear visually dull and heavy.
5、Freshwater pearls
Freshwater pearls are mostly produced in China. They can be classified into two types: non-nucleated freshwater pearls and nucleated freshwater pearls. The diameter of freshwater pearls varies greatly, ranging from 2mm to 15mm. They come in colors such as white, purple, pink, and orange. Purple, pink, and orange are unique colors found in freshwater pearls.
Freshwater pearls do not naturally occur in gold or black colors. If you come across gold or black freshwater pearls, they have been dyed. Just as it is impossible for two Caucasian parents to have a child with African heritage, the colors you mentioned are not naturally found in freshwater pearls.
Non-nucleated freshwater pearls refer to the type where a single mussel can produce multiple pearls, typically 20 to 30 pearls. These pearls are formed by implanting small pieces of mantle tissue into the sides of the mussel's shell. They are known for being plentiful, affordable, and less round in shape.
As for freshwater cultured pearls with a nucleus, similar to saltwater cultured pearls, they require the implantation of a nucleus and a small piece of mantle tissue into the adductor muscle of the mussel. Typically, it results in one pearl per mussel.
Compared to saltwater pearls, most freshwater pearls have a slightly lesser luster and are generally more affordable in price.
6、Edison pearls
Edison pearls are considered to be the highest quality among freshwater cultured pearls. High-quality Edison pearls can rival Akoya pearls in terms of quality, but they are priced much lower than Akoya pearls.
The mother mollusk of Edison pearls is the triangle sail mussel. Triangle sail mussels are relatively large in size, and in non-nucleated cultivation, they can produce 2 to 30 pearls in one cycle, providing sufficient growth environment for Edison pearls during nucleated cultivation as well. Like saltwater pearls, Edison pearls can reach diameters of 15mm or more.
Due to the rapid secretion of nacre by the triangle sail mussel, Edison pearls produced have a thicker nacre layer. Moreover, Edison pearls have a wider range of body colors compared to saltwater pearls. In addition to white, they come in shades of pink, orange, and purple. Among them, those with rich iridescence and metallic luster are known as "fancy colors" in freshwater pearls, and highly saturated purple ones are referred to as "mystic purple." If you're looking for more unique and personalized options, Edison pearls are worth considering.
7、Melo pearls
Melo pearls, also known as "Dragon Pearls" or "Flame Pearls," are natural pearls found in Southeast Asia. They lack the traditional layered structure of pearls and are characterized by their large size, with specimens weighing over 100 carats being quite common.
Melo pearls exhibit a porcelain-like luster and are most highly prized when they possess a golden color with a hint of red, resembling the color of ripe papaya. The internal patterns of Melo pearls resemble golden flames or flowing magma, creating an incredibly magnificent appearance.
The mother shell of Melo pearls is the Melo melo, also known as the Indian volute or bailer shell. The Melo melo is primarily found in Southeast Asia, including Myanmar, Thailand, Vietnam, and the Indian Ocean-Pacific region. It is a type of gastropod mollusk.
Melo pearls cannot be cultivated through artificial means. Despite many experts' attempts over the years to culture Melo pearls, they have been unsuccessful in doing so.
Due to the inability to cultivate Melo pearls artificially and their extremely low natural production rate, there are currently only around 200 Melo pearls in the world. This scarcity has led to a high market value for Melo pearls, but they are often considered priceless due to their limited availability.
In June 2003, at the Bonhams auction in Hong Kong, a 100.4-carat Melo pearl was sold for $2.7 million, setting a world record for the highest price per carat for a single pearl at $26,892. In the autumn auction of Sotheby's Hong Kong in 2007, a 91.29-carat Melo pearl was sold for a hammer price of $125,000.
8、Conch pearls
Conch pearl, also known as Melo pearl or "Queen Conch Pearl," is a natural pearl formed within a conch shell, similar to the Melo pearl. Conch pearls typically exhibit a symmetrical oval shape, although some may have baroque formations. They are generally found in sizes ranging from 1 to 2 carats, with fewer specimens between 3 and 4.5 carats, and they are extremely rare above 5 carats.
Common colors of conch pearls include white, pink, and brown. Among them, pink is considered the most beautiful, resembling a delicate shade of blush. Beneath the ceramic-like glossy surface, the conch pearl displays distinct flame-like patterns that can vary in delicacy, boldness, softness, or exuberance. It's truly a testament to the extraordinary craftsmanship of nature.
The mother of conch pearls is the Queen Conch, also known as the Pink Conch or Queen Conch Shell. It is typically found in the beaches of Florida, USA, the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico, the Bahamas, and the beaches of the Atrani Peninsula in the Caribbean Sea. The Queen Conch is known for its relatively large size. The inner lip of the shell exhibits a beautiful pink color with a glossy surface, which adds to its stunning appearance.
Conch pearls are equally rare and precious in the jewelry market. They cannot be cultured artificially and have a very limited natural production. It takes approximately 50,000 Queen Conch shells to yield a single usable conch pearl. Out of the 2,000 to 3,000 conch pearls discovered each year, only 20% to 30% are suitable for jewelry processing. This means that the annual production is only around 600 pearls. Furthermore, due to excessive harvesting and the rapid decline in the population of Queen Conch shells, among other factors, the price of conch pearls remains consistently high.
Alright, we have covered the introduction to various types of pearls. If there is anything specific you would like to know, please feel free to reach out to us. We are here to assist you!